Manual do raptor 30 v2

Open only the bag Also, a fuel filter available from any hobby 3 BK shop, TTR should be placed between the fuel tank and the carburetor. Page 6 3 Main Frame Assembly-Part1 Please insert the frame spacers, bearings, pulley and parts in the frames according the drawing below. Tighten the screws snugly, but do not over torque them which could strip the plastic. Insert starter shaft through the center of the clutch bell assembly, through the top starter shaft bearing and into the starter coupling.

Attach the linkage rod to the parallel elevator linkage balls. Page 9 7 Main Frame Assembly-Part3 Insert Main Shaft through the shaft bearings making sure that the end with the holes closest to the end is pointed down.

Next, slide main gear assembly into position on the shaft and line up the holes in the main shaft with the holes in one way clutch shaft of the main gear assembly.

Page Engine Assembly 9 Engine Assembly Note: A piston lock purchased from your dealer will make this a much easier task. When screwing on the flybar paddles to the flybar, stop when you can see the rod in the window of the paddle. Then, lay the assembly on a flat surface and align the paddles so they are exactly parallel. Page 12 12 Main Frame Assembly-Part5 Slide the main Rotor assembly over the main shaft and align the two pins to slide in the washout assembly.

Make sure the holes in the main shaft line up with the holes in the main rotor head. Insert the socket screw and secure with locknut. Then slide the tail linkage rod into the rod guides. Next, insert the tail rotor drive belt into the boom so that it comes out of both ends. Place drive belt over tail drive pulley and complete balance of tail boom assembly. Page 14 16 Servo Installation-Part1 Assembly Tip: Remove all the servo wheels prior to attaching the steel linkage balls.

Make sure all linkages are the correct length. Page 15 17 Servo Installation-Part2 Assembly Tip: Remove all the servo wheels prior to attaching the steel linkage balls. Neatness counts, so take your time. The three different scales are designed for beginner, intermediate or expert F3C and 3D pilots. Page 20 10mm The above pushrod lengths will permit 3D with the Raptor. Use these lengths as a starting point. Beginners can also use those pushrod lengths, but just connect the collective control to the outside point on the pitch control arm.

Pushrod lengths are measured from ball link center to ball link center. Page 21 Engine Throttle Control Linkage Mount the steel linkage ball to the outer hole on the metal throttle arm. At full throttle stick, the carburetor hole should open completely. At low throttle and with the throttle trim all the way down, the carburetor hole should close completely. I can testify to this because I bought the V2 clutch for my first Raptor and it lasted longer than the 5 or 6 V1 clutches the heli went through and was still working fine until I crashed the model.

The fuel tank has been redesigned. I believe it has more capacity but I'm not sure about that. The canopy is also redesigned. Frankly, it looks pretty much the same to me but a lot of guys say, "Man! It's less butt-ugly than before! There are clips molded into the both sides of the frame to hold wires from the electronics. This is something I'm happy to see because it took a bit of rigging to keep the gyro wire out of the gearing on my last Raptor.

There is also a stand-off for mounting a header tank. I've never used a header tank, but I'm clear on what the advantages are.

I'm pretty sure I can accomplish the same thing in a short time for a fraction of the cost. If you have never flown a heli and are considering various models as your first then I recommend this model to you.

It's very simple, well engineered, the molding and overall parts fit is fantastic and you should encounter no frustrations at all during the build. Along those lines, I also recommend that you build this model. First, it's a lot of fun to put together. Second, if somebody brought me an ARF heli to put together for him, I would take it back apart just to make sure everything had been tightened properly and that Loctite was applied in appropriate places.

Building it from the beginning would save me a lot of time since I wouldn't have to take it apart first. Lastly, I think it's important that you know what's inside and what it does.

Helicopters need a lot of maintenance and you'll be ahead of the game if you already understand how it's put together. This model took me only one day to completely build. That includes installing everything while taking about 1, photos for this article which were culled to about Balancing the rotor blades, aligning the head and setting up the radio took another day.

At many places the English text was improved, as well as the layout. Some part numbers have been corrected. A few sentences where correction would need more than changing a few words were left unchanged. The front page has been recreated in color, where the original manual is all black and white. A colored front page is so much more inviting! Recreated from scratch like the Raptor50V2 manual, but this one was really created from scratch, using only my scanner but no earlier comparible pdf manuals.

The bearings in the PV metal main rotor hub the metal upgrade head are the following sizes: small bearings: d4 x D8 x W3 large bearings: Z d10 x D19 x W5. Press a bearing into each side of each flybar control lever.

The flybar control lever has two holes at one end. Use one of the M2 x 10 self-tapping screws to attach a ball to the inside hole. December 18, Note that the balls have a shoulder on one side.